Dreams do Come True
From the moment I applied to Greenheart Travel's 'Teach in Italy' program, I was always told, "Keep an open mind," and "Don't go in with any expectations." Even during orientation, when referring to how we would feel about Italian culture, an American teacher that works in Turin told us, "It's not good, it's not bad, it's just different."
I haven't written since my trip to Brussels and Amsterdam because I've been busy planning lessons or traveling, and to be quite honest I found it difficult to put what I was experiencing down in words. I arrived in Italy with the plan that I would add more countries to my passport, that I would make connections/build relationships, etc. And it's very difficult to not have any expectations whatsoever, it's human nature, but what I've learned is that IT IS okay for things to not go as planned. It's actually ironic because a recent AirBnb host asked me what my zodiac sign was after I had just explained all my travel mishaps to her. She was stunned to hear my stories because Capricorns are notoriously devote planners, and up until this experience, I was. But sometimes you just have to go with the flow, or roll with the punches. I've found enjoyment in the spontaneous adventures, comfort in the uncomfortable, that time is priceless, and most people are kind hearted and want to help, you just have to ask.
*I started this post on May 2 after I got back from my travels, but I had a few technical glitches where I lost the whole post and had to rewrite it, and then a whirlwind on a last week in Italy and 10 days in Ireland and England so I wasn't able to finish it until now. So this is a disclaimer that this was in fact two weeks ago and not yesterday.
So this weekend was the Italian Labor Day, well yesterday I should say, but it's equivalent to LDW in America. I left with my host and headed towards Bologna, where she would drop me off and head further south for the long weekend. At this point, I didn't have anything booked, but just a general idea of where I wanted to visit in the next few days. During my entire time in Italy, I've been struggling with technology problems - whether that's a dying phone battery, dysfunctional charging cables, outlet prongs that don't fit the socket, touch screen malfunctions because of screen cracks, or now water damage, the list probably goes on. So when I got to Bologna I a) needed to top-up (re-load) my cell credit, b) buy a new charger, c) charge my phone, and d) find accommodation for the night.
Now, for my first experience with CouchSurfing. If you have experience with this app, please message me because I actually want to hear what people I know think about it. I messaged two people in Bologna to see if they could host me. Then, I discovered the hangout feature and found fellow CouchSurfers to join for apertivo (basically an Italian drink appetizer) and explore Bologna. The clock is ticking away, sun setting, and I have yet to find a place to sleep. We hop along the streets getting drinks and dinner, my phone is at 4% so luckily the other traveler lets me borrow their portable charger. One of the hosts finally accepts my request, responds infrequently and proceeds to tell me he can't pick me up and can only still host me if I don't mind sharing one bed with him. *cue warning sirens* so that was a no go...The other two didn't want me to be stranded in the streets so they brought me back to their hostel and let me stay in the common room if I was gone by 6am because reception was gone for the night. After a 2-hr nap, I rose with the sun and headed out into the streets to explore the sleeping medieval city until my train to Toscana. The city is beautifully lined in porticos (or arcades), making a visit to the city enjoyable in any weather. Unfortunately, I didn't get to taste the Bolognese (which I learned is a made up name for ragù, or meat sauce), but my time in Bologna was certainly an adventure. I had a delicious pistachio cream croissant and caffè macchiato before embarking to my next city.
A very good friend told me about a vineyard in Tuscany, and the owner happens to have restaurants in America, one in Sarasota, Florida (which I visited) and two in Philadelphia. It's Tuscany, so obviously I had to go. I took the train to Buonconvento, and the views leading up to destined station were everything I imagined Tuscany would be. I started to trek through the tiny town, 3 miles up a windy road with no sidewalks to the villa. Cars and bikes kept passing me on both sides, and I stood in the grass until they passed.
A coach bus passed me on the dirt road down to the villa, and then again after it dropped the passengers off and the driver waved while smoking his cigarette. When I entered the villa, a staff member greeted me, and I asked for Alberto, the owner, and they said he was in the kitchen. After explaining my connection, they gave me lunch with wine and a tour of the property. They asked me where I was staying and where I was going. At this point, I was kind of in the middle of Tuscany and wanted to experience more of this villa if I could, so I asked if they had any availability for the night, but I wasn't expecting all that happened next. They fixed me a room and I relaxed by the pool with the large group of American guests that arrived on the coach before me, who were probably all my parents age (no offense). There was even a fitness center! Besides biking or hockey training, I admittedly haven't truly worked out since I left the States, so I took this opportunity to lift again. (Click through the pics in the slideshow to see my Tuscan adventure)
I showered and went to dinner, and tonight the owner juggled eating dinner with me, while overseeing the group of guests that were eating outside on the terrace. With 5 years of experience in the service industry, I was very curious about the operations of this luxurious abode. He explained that each meal is a surprise to the guests and they rotate the wine served. Dinner is always a 4-course meal of traditional Italian dishes prepared by the very talented Chef, Massimiliano, who agreed to teach me to cook if I taught him English.
The next morning, I ate breakfast, went to the gym again (2 days in a row, wow!), and showered. When I was ready to leave to catch my next train, I couldn't find anyone. It was going to take me an hour to walk back to the train station, so I needed to leave, otherwise I would miss it. I eventually asked one of the staff members and they called them for me because I needed to pay and thank them for their generous hospitality. The owner and his daughter came out to greet me, and I asked how much I owe them. They said, "Nothing." Before I could respond, they laughingly said a very high price. My age, arriving by foot, and only with a bookbag as my luggage probably made it appear that I could not afford this place. And they would be right. But my jaw dropped when they said how much it would have cost me for that one night. I knew it would be pricey, but I thought they were running a spring offer, and while expensive, I would have been willing to pay it for this once in a lifetime experience. When I imagined Italy, this place is what I dreamt it to be. Casali di Bibbiano, you are a very special place, that I hope one day I can return to for a proper vacation as a paying guest. It's beauty is indescribable and character unsurmountable. I could've easily been turned away, but I was treated as family and experienced the utmost Italian hospitality. From the views on the train rides to the picturesque aspect from this terrace, the rolling hills of Tuscany are no joke. I was only here for a day, but the weather was perfect, and just sitting here seemed like a slice of heaven. It is my favorite place I visited in Italy and the highlight of my time here. This magical place is tucked away in the beautiful hills of Tuscany, and I think this entire experience is a testament to the saying, "It's not what you know, it's who you know," because without my friend, I never would have known about this estate. Can someone please pinch me, because I must be dreaming.
"If you keep on believing, the dreams that you wish will come true."
I wasn’t even in Disney World, but I certainly got to live like Cinderella for a day.
After emphatically thanking them, I knew I had to leave to catch my train, and luckily the daughter offered to drive me into town so I didn't have to make the hour trek by foot. I was the only one at the station, not surprising. The train finally arrived, slowly stopping next to the platform, and it was the smallest train I've ever seen! It only had one or two cars, and of course I didn't see a bathroom on board. I had a connection to Pisa from Montepescali with about a 30 min wait. Gotta admit, one thing I miss about America is the frequent and free public restrooms. Thank goodness the next train had a toilet immediately inside the boarding door. Traveling is such a struggle between wanting to stay hydrated, but also having limited access to toilets along the way. I arrived in Pisa, bought a postcard as I do in every city I visit, and hopped on a bus to the tower. I snapped a pic, but traveling solo makes it quite difficult to take any of the cliche touristy pics, but I made do with my selfie stick. Most public transportation tickets in Italy are valid for 60-90 mins after "validating" or using them so I used the same ticket to hop back on the bus back to the train station.
From there, I took a train to La Spezia, as my goal was to see Cinque Terre, but I was a bit behind schedule because I didn't want to leave the beauty of Tuscany. But the first train was a bit late, so when I was nearing La Spezia, I realized I missed my connection to Riomaggiore, the first village of the five that make up Cinque Terre, the coastline of the Italian Riviera (which literally means 5 Lands). I had no accommodation booked and it was getting late, so I didn't want a repeat of Bologna. Most accomodation in Cinque Terre was expensive, fully booked, or had bad reviews. Suddenly, I spotted a sign for the next train departing to a town I recognized only because I remembered seeing an AirBnb listing there. Without a ticket, I hopped on the train, and was nauseous the entire time because I was afraid a ticket man would come to check for tickets. The ride was longer than I expected, and traveling through tunnels made any internet connection nearly impossible so I could not buy a ticket, nor could I book my AirBnb.
I reserved it once I got off the train, and called the host immediately so she would be aware, but she said she needed about an hour or so and advised me to head towards the main part of town. My random adventures and mishaps lead me to this quaint, little town called Pontremoli, which means "trembling bridge." It's filled with narrow streets, churches, a lot of history, and cute stone bridges that stretch across a river. I only saw it in the dark of the night, but I wish I had more time to explore it during the day. I hadn't eaten since breakfast because I was constantly traveling so I was very hungry and on the hunt for a place to eat. I was in an area of Italy located between Liguria and Toscana, so I wanted food typical of the area. I decided on Osteria San Francesco e il lupo for some testaroli al pesto, which was like a giant crepe topped with local pesto (pictured left). I ordered a mezzo litro (half liter) of the house red wine, and burrata with a type of ham similar to prosciutto (pictured right). It was amazing, but I was starting to get full halfway through the second course and I also didn't want to arrive too late to the AirBnb. So I chugged my water bottle and poured my remaining wine into the bottle so I could take it with me. You might think that's a low point, but I think win. I didn't want to waste the perfectly good wine.
When I arrived at the host's place, she was so welcoming and chatted with me for a while about my travels and teaching experience, as she was an English tutor herself, and then she was giving me a lot of information about the town and to help me figure out my travels for the next day. The next morning she gave me breakfast, which isn't always typical of AirBnB's, and on top of that she gave me a parma prosciutto sandwich to take for lunch! So generous! I hurried on my way to make the train on time back to La Spezia. I was hoping to take the 10am ferry once I got there, but the walk from the train station to the pier took too long so I had to wait until 11:15. Due to the inclement weather, the ferry was only stopping at Ponte Verro (where the host recommended) and Monterosso, the final village of Cinque Terre. I explored the Boardwalk and then hopped on the ferry. Where was my Dramamine when I needed it?....because those waters were rough! The boat rocked front to back and side to side, so aggressively I thought we might tip over. It was windy and started to drizzle and silly me was probably the only one on the boat without a proper coat. Despite the rain and maybe slight seasickness, the views were incredible, and Cinque Terre is so cute. The boat pulled in close enough to take pictures of Vernazza. It started to POUR when I arrived in Monterosso. I was warned that the weather won't keep tourists away from Cinque Terre, it's always packed. It reminded me a lot of Capri, a small island of the coast of Naples. There were little shops lined along the narrow streets with typical food, limoncello, pottery, etc.
I still wanted to visit Genova, so I tried to take the next train there, but it wouldn't let me buy a ticket within 5 mins of departure and the lines at the ticket kiosks and counters were too long. I tried to ask a train attendant if I could buy one for the next hour and still get on this one (usually when you buy tickets like this it's valid for 4 hours within the departure). But she rudely scolded if you buy online you need to honor the time of the ticket. I looked for my other options, and decided to head back into town and shop or get some food. I was told that this place exploits the fact that it's so touristy, so I didn't know where I should go. I just explored the streets filled with beautiful pastel colored buildings until I decided I probably didn't have enough time for a sit down meal. I LOVE pesto and this place is known for it so I knew I had to try it. I found a takeaway shop where I decided to get pesto gnocchi. I took it back to the train with me and a man made some comment about it to me while I waited for my train. Like always, the train was late. At first I didn't have a seat either, so I couldn't eat my food. Two stops later, some people got off and I sat down. With my pesto gnocchi and water bottle of wine, I had a full Italian meal on my long train ride back home. I got a few strange looks from the man diagonally across the aisle from me, but the pesto was amazing. Towards the end, learned that all the young teens around me were also headed to Torino and were part of a touring circus. But because the train was late, we missed our connection in Genova and had to wait an hour for the next one. By the time I got to Torino, there was only one option left for me to get home because none of the normal buses were running because of the holiday. My phone was also on 4% and I needed a toilet - the constant struggles of my travels. I took a metro to another stop, hopped on the bus, and had a 13 min walk home from there, and of course it was raining - but I made it home with 1% battery left.
This was probably one of my craziest travel experiences, but also one of the most rewarding and one that I will cherish forever. You get one life to live, and time is not guaranteed, so who knows if I will ever make it back to Toscana or Casali di Bibbiano again, but I know my Italian dreams were fulfilled with this trip. Mark Twain’s quote was never more relevant, “Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do.”
